Scooter Buyer's Guide

Never go alone; always take a mate, preferably a knowledgeable one, and take off the rose-tinted specs.
Do your homework on the particular model before you go - little pointers here and there can make all the difference when you see it in the flesh. Don't make rash decisions and be prepared to walk away from anything that simply doesn't sound right.
If it sounds too good to be true then the chances are that it will be. There are plenty of bikes out there, so don't be frightened to miss this one. Make sure the name on the logbook ties in with the guy who is selling and the venue you are viewing it at. After all, who really does let a mate sell a bike on their behalf? And yet the amount of times that story is used is beyond belief.
Look out for specific times that you can call the seller - for instance, between 5 and 6pm - as this could well mean he is standing in a phone box and not at his residence, making tracing him difficult should things get nasty later. Likewise with a mobile number, these are notoriously difficult to trace so put this bike to the bottom of your list.
Ask about the service history. If it hasn't been to a dealer then enquire what oil has been used and how often it and the filter have been changed. Remember most bikes don't need a major (read very pricey] service until around the 10k mark (when things like rollers and belts will probably need a check), so do bear this in mind. Unless you have some mechanical aptitude, it won't be the kind of job you can tackle yourself, so get ready for a bill that could be into treble figures if this is just around the corner.

It might be worth getting a HPI check if the bike isn't from a reputable dealer. Even when a bike is in a dealer showroom always ask, as some do sell bikes on behalf of customers. Even though technically your rights shouldn't be affected, don't take anything for granted in this matter. Is the bike a parallel import? Ihere have been, and still are, a sizable number brought into the UK every year - some have not been modified with the correct headlights etc required to pass an MoT test (headlights should be UK spec, so check for the correct type before buying. As a quick test, the main beam should dip to the left or straight on. Check out: www.ukmotxom/bike). A parallel should be priced considerably lower than a UK spec machine.

Look for any signs of damage to expensive and difficult-to-replace items. Don't be impressed by any customising or modifications, no matter how small. Just because the owner wanted to fit a sports exhaust, or paint it in a race replica scheme, it doesn't mean you have to pay for it as an extra. Check the speedo mileage and make sure the thing is working too. Old MoTs or service bills can be indicators of constant use, so check these thoroughly. Worn handlebar grips are good signs of high mileage, as nothing else but riding the bike can wear them out.



Have a good look around bits that might have been up the road, or damaged in a crash. The bottom of the forks can often get a scraping in a slide, so always check the outer corners for telltale signs. Does the mileage tally with the general wear and tear of the rest of the bike? Check MoT certificates and tax discs. Most owners keep them and they should run on from one date to another without gaps - unless the bike has been under a SORN declaration. If there is any discrepancy in mileage, then beware. Is the paintwork original? Have a good look around for signs of overspray around the back of the plastics, or orange peel effect on the finish. This will not be standard.

Check suspension by depressing the forks with the front brake. The forks should resist this action in a progressive manner, indicating they are working well. Test the rear by pushing the tail end down and then moving your hands away quickly. The rear end should rise slower than your hands have lifted off indicating that the damping is working. Ask what, if any, alterations have been made to the suspension with a view to returning them to standard as soon as possible.
Brakes should have plenty of life left in them, as indeed should the tyres. When were tyres fitted and how often have they been changed? This is often a good indicator of the kind of rider the owner is. Tyres should also be the correct size, so check for oversize rubber.

Negotiating a deal
What you and the seller think the bike is worth may be different, so negotiate a price. They aren't likely to highlight any bad points, so you'll have to spot them for yourself. Anything that doesn't look or work correct leaves you in a strong bargaining position. Extras don't necessarily make bike worth more, so don't pay for something you don't want.
At the end of the day, very few (if any) machines actually sell for the price they are advertised for. Owners often place a higher value their machines than they are worth in reality, so negotiate hard and you might get a bargain.